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Journeys with the wind

Already in the times of the pharaohs people knew how to use the wind, how to let these natural element work for them. Transmissions from old reliefs and wall paintings tell us, that sailing boats were already known in the Old Kingdom – to carry all kinds of freight, also for people's journeys.

But with the wind it's not quiet easy, since it has its own little malices: predominant in Egypt the direction of the wind is north – up then and still today. Therefore it was preferred to sail upstream. In comparison rowing was announced if going down the river.

If you look to the hieroglyphs you can imagine the importance of travelling the Nile in ancient times. There are two particular signs for it: "travel north", means downstream, was depicted as a rowing boat , "travel south", means upstream, as a sailing boat. Therefore it's a little bit funny, that nowadays it became a tourist attraction to go by felukka, the traditional Egyptian sailing boat, from south to north, from Aswan downstream to Kom Ombo, Edfu or Esna, to be precise. Of course you find this offer also in Luxor. Upstream from Esna (only from/to this little town at the lock, longer sailing trips are permitted) up to Aswan, with sightseeing stopps at the ancient sites along the Nile and a better chance to catch the "right" wind. And who does not have enough time for a "real" journey should not miss a small two or three hours cruise on the Nile in Luxor. Just for getting an idea of this trips.

What is so fascinating about travelling by felukka? May be it's because the wind only gives the orders for the cruising speed, the wind which up to know cannot be manipulated by human beeings. Leisurely, nearly soundless the boat is gliding along the stream. Passing by the fertile green shores, the islands and villages. Passing by "bath taking" water buffaloes, nervous ibises, flocks of quacking ducks. Passing by felachin and fishermen, cultivating their fields and casting their fishing nets like thousand of years before.

"Background musics“, the ongoing sounds of this journey, are immediately connected with the going ahead of the boat. After a short time the melody with its calming effect becomes familiar to you: The creaking of the tiller, the flapping of the large sail, the murmur of the water under the boat's hull. Anyway if you decide to go by normal felukka, one of the rare old elegant dahabeeyas - the carefully restored and comfortable two-masters - or one of the sandels (former cargo boats), rebuilt into small cruises: motors are taboo!

Cooking and sleeping will happen aboard, either under the fascinating starry sky of Upper Egypt or in small cabins. You will feel as suddenly reverted to the past. On the way you well get into the right mood to bump into the locals when going ashore. For meetings with modern people in the cities and villages as well as with the witnesses of the past when stopping for sightseeings – there, where the gods have been worshipped in the temples close to the river.

Lots of Egypt's visitors are willing to leave sometimes their exact schedules behind, to miss some days the comfort of their five-star hotels. For all those who like to get involved in the simple way of life of the "ordinary" Egyptians, these Nile cruises are the perfect way for discovering the country. An unforgettable experience without timetable, without convention. An enterprise that enables everybody to form a special and close connection with the country and the unique hospitality of its inhabitants.

You can find reliable captains and boats on the West Bank as well as on the East Bank of Luxor, and of course in Aswan. They will appreciate to abduct you into their world of the sounds of silence, to tempt you for a journey with the wind. (Text and Fotos Antje Sliwka)

Do not hesitate to contact us for recommandation.

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