Mohamed might got the right touch to handle the rivers inhabitants from his father. Just behind the restaurant beside the houses of the family you find remains of old canals and an old pumping station for the irrigation of the surrounding fields. Nowadays this is an magic area that change during twilight into a fairytale forest (pictures right). Into a place where nobody will be surprised when fairies, goblins or water nymphs use it as their playground. "In former times my father catched here a lot of fishes. He teached me everything I know about fishes", the self-made specialist tells, who worked before for example as a receptionist in the hotel "Salam" and as a waiter in the restaurant "Marhaba" in Luxor. But most important for him was his father, he learnt a lot from him.

Today Mohamed has to buy his "river companions", every two days he gets a delivery of fresh caught fish from Esna, aproximately 55 km south of Luxor. "Behind the dam the water is more clean, the fishes are healthy", he swears. And big, that's very important for him. Which kind of fish he serves? Immediately he gives a long answer in Arabic. We don't understand any word, but trust Mohamed.

Now we wrote a lot about fish - grilled, cooked in the Tagen, the earthenware pots, or simply baked in oil. But no question, the gastronomical outsider also offers of course grilled chicken (very tasteful, wetried this meal when we are invited to the wedding party of Mohamed's sister Sakina) and pigeons breeded by the family. On request in advance also meat can be prepared. The menues are served with mixed salad in a tasty dressing and homemade bread, the main course with rice. For your attention: There is nearly always garlic in the game! As dessert there are seasonal fruits. Everything very clear and simple - but always also simply good!

We pour so much praise to this place, that for sure you will ask: Why you started with such a careful beginning of this story? The answer is - again - simple but also multilayered. For Egypt beginners the place looks not just tempting. Everything shows up in the typical style of the numerous very simple coffee shops. Outside there is just an area as a terrace meanwhile with some greenery, some tables, benches and plastic chairs for maximum 30 persons. The inside area is a small room for up to 20 guests. They sit on plastic chairs, if it is full very close to each other. The unpainted walls are still "shining" in the grey colour of the plaster. To change that in the moment our young entrepreneur is out of money.

The same reason is responsible for another missing important facility - a toilet. "Egyptians are used just to go around the next corner", Mohamed appologize bashful. The installation of such a corner is already planned since monthes. But from where to take the necessary Pounds? Here a vicious circle will close. Because without a WC only 00 tourist groups will come to "ZamZam"...

And we can add our personal experiences. If we ask relatives or friends during their visits to Egypt to try out the real life here - to which the restaurant "ZamZam" belongs to - mostly the first answer will be: "We are scared to do so, we got the advice to be extremely careful. You live here since years, you became resistant." One feels the worries because of the widely discussed lack of hygienic conditions.

It's right, we stay since five years in Egypt. But also befor we visited places like "ZamZam" during our many holidays in this country, had our meals in bazars and with families, sometimes on dishes cleaned in the Nile. Without any reservation. And we always felt okay. On the other hand we heard about problems from travellors staying in hotels with many stars. We are sure that many problems are a question of the mind, of the attitude. Mostly - like in "ZamZam" - the hygienic conditions in the Egytian kitchen is as good as yours at home. At least this confirmed to us the mentioned doctors, visitors of the restaurant and partly contracted doctors for European tour operators.

So, be brave and do not miss this culinary adventure. Simple, unsophisticated good plain cooking. Forget about all the reservations and simply enjoy. Like we did it several times and will do it again and again. Have a nice meal.

Ah, at the end there are left some short comments from us to you.

- The story with the gas cylinder of course is an exception. Usually the service in "ZamZam"goes
  off smoothly.
- The name "ZamZam" goes back to the name of the Holy well near Mecca. Just with the water of
  this well Abrahams second wife Hagara fed her son Sohn Isaak in the desert. Today the well is
  an important place to visit during the pilgrimage, the Hag. Mohamed: "Once i like to visit this
  place." Do you think that the belief in this name and its miraculous impact is another secret
  of the restaurant "ZamZam"?
- In "ZamZam" you will find several posters from Bob Marley, from time to time hear his songs.
  Mohamed is a Bob-Marley-Fan. "The subjects of his songs are freedom, acceptance and
  understanding between people. Also I live for that", says the normally always funny man with
  sudden honesty. You can trust him - not only in fish.

 

Information:

Location: Coming from the Nile follow the main road until the police checkpoint New Qurna, turn left direction Esna. After about 1,5 km just behind the El Ezba bridge, right side, you will find "ZamZam"

Prices: Menu LE 25, Soft Drinks (Cola, mango or lemon juice, tea, Nescafe) LE 2, Stella beer LE 8 (because it is not in the stock please order it after your arrival; beer will not be served during the fasting month of Ramadan), local wine by order in advance only, special menues on request

Opening hours: Daily from noon until 3 a.m.

Contact: You can reach Mohamed py phone under 002-095-2426367. If you are interested you also can use the contact button of this website, also for reservations for groups with special ideas (please send messages or reservations some days in advance), we can forward your message

Service: Mohamed also can organize trips or arrange your private party according to your ideas, also with live music. Contact see above