Donkey trip part II

Slim Casanova gets paunch

After we passed New Qurna with its still closed shops and coffeeshpos left and right along the street, we turn left using now a small alley. This way not only we, but also our donkeys like much more. There are more interesting things to be seen, to be heard and to be smelled. Thr long ears of our donkeys long ears now stay tuned. Christel's beast of burden now and then likes to take a smell for some bequests left by any of his relatives. The bend down for this good smelling manure heaps everytime puts our beginner off balance. "Oh my God, there is already the next heap!", soon she can predict the next head bend. With Karola's "Mercedes" there seems to be a problem with the speed control. Haggag is busy to force her donkey as the two do not miss their connection.

In contrary to that two donkeys my "C model" offers another speciality: all the time he looks out for female species. And as soon as he picks up the scent of a donkey lady, he is pumping up his body for his irresistable I-aah. I feel this deep breathing of my "Casanova" before there is any sound to be heard. A strange feeling, if the slim young male suddenly gets a serious paunch.

Again we pass fields and villages. Bit by bit life starts all around. Up from our donkey's backs we glimpse through the open doors and windows into the village houses. Everywhere there is a friendly welcome for us – "ahlan we sahlan" or "marhaba" as the locals say. Especially by the kids who, even it is early in the morning, are asking for "bakshish", for sweets and pens. Anyway, they will not get money from us, but some sweets and balloons, things that on trips are always with me. As long as available I distribute my presents.

After approximately 45 minutes – depending on speed and order of the group the trip can last longer – we reach "Habu City", as the village names itself pompous, and the temple. Since Haggag bought the tickets already in advance we save the way to the tickets office. With loud "Hosh, hosh" commands we slam to the brakes of our four legged friends, let them "parking" in front of the entrance of the temple. We get off our donkey's, and again our kind Haggag is ready for any assistance if needed.

My first questions to Christel and Karola: "Do you enjoy this way of movement? Do you feel your backsides, are your legs a bit limp?" Christel answers: "Somehow my legs are like rubber." Karola nodds and adds: "To sit on an office chair certainly is more comfortable, but not so funny and exiting." It was the same with me on my first donkey ride. "May be you have been too cramped. Try to be more relaxed for our next leg. After all, now you know how to ride, you don't need to worry anymore", I encourage them. Well, may be they thought, only one ride before and I nearly became a professional. But frankly spoken, also me was happy about a rest from riding. We allow not only to us and our muscles a short break, but also to Haggag and our kind animals. While we do our sightseeing Haggag will take care for them.

Because we already went to the sharp border between the agricultural land and the desert – by the way, all mortuary temples in Thebes West you will find on this line – we will take in the wasteland along the way. Assisted by Haggag we are back on our saddles. Even Christel and Karola pictures right: Christel viewing the desert from a dune, Karola and Haggag joking) are practiced now, are relaxed (because that will avoid you from painful sore muscles).

 

 

 

 

We follow a gravel road, where left and right hand the ruins of a temple dedicated to the god Toth and the poor remains of "Malkatta", the living palace of Amenhetep III. and his Queen Teje, can be seen. Actually, this Royal family has been an exception, because usually the East Bank was the side for living, the West Bank of the Nile was the realm of the dead. Meanwhile this ancient rules changed, as some farm houses can be seen, looking like mini oases. One of this oases is the "French House", the building where French archaeologists live during the excavation seasons. Finally we leave the luxuriant green agricultural land, reach the hostile dessert. Haggag takes the pole position, leads us to a sand dune. But his manoeuvre doesn't work without small problems. Caused – of course – by the donkeys. Karola's seems to think: "Enough is enough. I will not run any longer, and not at all I will climb up this hill."

But it's not a donkey's decision. Haggag jumps down his donkey, commands him "Hosh" to stay. You can imagine who takes this command for his own? Of course, the unwilling one, that dosn't want to go anywhere. And of course now you can hear lots of encouraging clicks with the tongues. But these clicks gets Haggag's long-eared neddy, not as wanted the obstinate one for a fast run. A funny donkey-like misunderstanding.Now actual it's high time to act stronger. Haggag grasps the reins, pulls the stubborn one up to the top of the dune. After all his effort he finally has to climb down the dune by feet, to catch his donkey. A real scream for all of us.

Now all two- and four-legs are together again. We enjoy the athmosphere, the view into the desert, to the mud brick cupolas of the old Coptic convent, that with its surrounding walls in the distance looks like a green fortress. And we can watch a group of horseback riders on Arabian horses, who like us enjoy the unique view after their cowboy-like desert ride (pictures below left)

Our four-legged friends know this place very well, know that here they can recover from their stress, from their strain of work. As it matched to a proper animal lover I stored some culinary delights for the neddies in my bag: cut pieces of raw potatoes and carrots in return for carry us to this beautifull place. But they are not just starving for death, or may be they have a special taste. One disapprovingly sniffs at the potatoes, while anotherone gobbles it up enthusiastically. The same with the carrots. Anyway, after this second breakfast, they lay down for a nap.

After a while of enjoyment with the silence and the desert, we are ready to ride back. Overjoyed our companions get up. They know, now we return home, back to their stable, back to real donkey fodder. Thereforw their speed – before sometimes a bit missing – is unbelievable high. There is nearly no holding back. And also guiding is not longer needed, the beasts exactly know the way.

Do you remember the phrases about "stupid donkey's"? On the fields, in the villages and streets meanwhile there is a lot of bustle. The adults are working, the kids on their way to school, the shops are open, and the coffeeshops very busy.

Safe and sound, happy, and a little bit exhausted we return back to the village El Gezira. At least we have been on route about four hours, on route for us in a really exceptional, unusual way. And slowly but surely it becomes hot. We are looking foreward to our second breakfast on the roof of our house, shaded by the leaves of a huge palm tree. Even we feel a bit stiff after getting off our donkey's, I for my part like to say, I would be happy to start my next donkey trip just tomorrow. And when I look into the faces of Christel and Karola, I don't have to ask them, I can see, that they really enjoyed our trip, had a lot of fun. Who knows, may be the next time you will join us? (Text and Fotos Antje Sliwka)

 

 

 

Information:

On the West Bank you find donkey guides at every corner. Lots of inhabitants offer their services for such trips. Ask in the village El Gezira anybody, and you find out, that for sure there is someone in his family, who rents donkeys. To find a reliable one, ask Ali in his restaurant "Africa" or contact us by eMail or the contact button on top of this page. With pleasure we can procure for trustworthy guides with good and secure animals. The price for a four to six hours trip will be per donkey/person between LE 15 and 50 plus the guide and his animal. If you are satisfied with your trip and the service, the guide will be very happy about a small extra bakshish. You can do this trips alone or in groups as well, there is no problem to provide also a big number of experienced donkeys. As you like, you can ride to the several monuments or just go out for a ride for fun. And for those of you, who are no "early birds": beside to the sunrise trips also a desert tour for sunset is highly recommended.

Want to know what is needed for a donkey trip? First of all you must feel comfortable in your clothing. Our advises: long trousers (someone may be is allergic with animal hair), shirt, blouse or t-shirt with sleeves, headgear (hat, headscarf or something else to protect your head from the sun), comfortable shoes, which cannot be lost on the ride. To have your hands free for "navigation", the best is to pack everything you need in a rucksack or shoulder bag.