Donkey trip part I

About sun rays and neddies

I want you to flash back, back into the forgotten ancient times. Into a time without air-conditioned busses, without comfortable taxis. How might the people in this times have moved? How early tourists, how archaeologists reached their targets on the West Bank? Any idea? Right there, they took donkeys for a ride. Exactly like our ancestors nowadays we can do our sightseeings. With a ride on the small grey (or white or black) animals one can have a great time. A ride through the villages and fields will let you find a different impression about the life in the countryside than through the windows of busses or cars. And not to forget: everybody – if old or young, female or male, a sportsman or a more unathletic type – easily can handle and ride a "homar" (the Arabic word for donkey. Take this to remember: think for the philosopher Homer, who mentioned Thebes as the city of the hundred gates in his Ilias, and you will remember the word). Especially because there will be always one guide, for bigger groups some guides around.

The most beautiful and pleasant time for such trips are the very early morning hours.Altough you may be told about the picturesque sunsets in Egypt, in contrary to these why not serve yourself with the speciality of a spectacular sunrise? The rays of the rising sun act like artists, perform as by magic above the city of Luxor and the river Nile artistic masterpieces on the sky, especially during the winter months. Every morning you find a new painting, every morning different.Sometimes the sky is coloured rosy, sometimes blazing red, sometimes yellow orange. By luck you have the chance to watch when the sunrays change the western mountains into a red sinfonie, set them nearly into fire. Another good reason for this early time is this specific spirit of the young morning, of the slowly wake-up of the new day with its distinctive sound effects. In a generous return for their efforts every "early bird" will be awarded by unforgetable and unique impressions and experiences.

I like to invite you to accompany me, Antje, my sister Christel, and her friend Karola on our early morning ride. Even the two ladies were really sceptic about such an adventure, I could persuade our two guests - actually both of them are city-dwellers from Hamburg and Berlin - to do this trip just at the beginning of their holiday. And meanwhile I repeated this trip – to be honest mostly for sunset – with several donkey newcomers, and all loved it.

As agreed, four pretty "Egyptian Mercedes", the favorite term of the locals for donkey when they deal with Germans, are waiting for us in time at six o'clock in the morning at the meeting point in front of our house. One for each of us, plus one for our guide Haggag, who – like us – also looks still a bit sleepy.

But of course we don't mount our donkeys until we have a look east over the Nile. Who gets up so early has to take some minutes to watch the sunrise. Take the chance to get yourself into the right mood for the new day and its surprises. Take some photos to remember this morning. And I swear, you will get only a very short time. As fast as the sun goes down in the evening, it rises in the morning. If you are some minutes late you will miss the right moment for your expected photo.

Okay, our shots are done, the cameras are wrapped-up safe. Now finally it is time to mount our donkeys, time to start our ride.

Our waiting four-legged companions are equipped with special upholstered saddles, for our well-beeing and comfort (as you can see on the pictures left shot later with two young ladies from the city of Leipzig/Germany). Haggag assists us to get on, as we don't look our age. And: if you come close to the donkey it's not as small as from the distance. Okay, okay. Admittedly I experienced once before. Without anybody noticing I can lead my donkey close to a small wall, mount it without any assistance.

Luckily we are all on, get a short theoretically lesson. Our nameless riding animals (lets call them all Ali Baba) are listening unimpressed and imperturbable. One may ask how many times before they heard the instructions: Turn off, change the direction? – pull the reins depend of the changing of directions left or right. Stopping? – Tighten both reins firmly and shout a tough "Hosh". More speed? – Do a strong click with your tongue, underline your wish in dengle with your legs. That's you need to know. Sounds easy and is easy.

Everybody sits comfortable? Then let's go.

Our target is Medinet Habu, the terrific, well preserved mortuary temple built by Rameses III.. Like every guide has is own route to go there, so also Haggag. But one is for all, to avoid the asphalted main roads – if it's possible–, to choose small streets and alleys leading through villages and fields. On one hand such streets are much better for donkey's hoofshoeless feet, on the other hand the riders are able to have a look to the urban life in the village.

At first we mince along the village El Gezira, follow then a sandy alley parallel to the main road. It seems that everyone of the four of us got another version of an "Egyptian Mercedes", tailored for the individual needs. Christel and Karola one with "basic trimmings", myself the bit more zippy "C class", and Haggag the one with "turbocharger".

Anyway, all of them have a mind of their own. Christel's, though not the fastest, likes to take over the leadership. Of course that doesn't fit at all with idea of the beginner. "Antje, Antje, please take the top", she begs me. Of course, with pleasure. Christel is shouting "Hosh, hosh", I try to force the speed of my Ali Baba with a click of my tongue. What happens? Of course there is a misunderstanding with our four-legged friends, they take our orders vice versa. No question, Christel's donkey steps on the accelerator, mine on the breaks. So we try again. I try to be a bit more strong, and now it works. I pass Christel in a nice speed, take over the lead. But where the hell is Karola? I look backwards, discover her and her donkey on a beautiful veranda. What's special up there? Delicious plants or the smell of a donkey lady? Of course he will not tell us, follows at least but unwilling Haggags order back on the right track.

Our small group is again complete just before we return to the main road at the police checkpoint near the village New Qurna. Here we have to cross the big intersection, fortunately in this early morning hours with low traffic density. Anyway, there is no reason to be worried. Because first of all our donkeys are absolutely road-worthy, second everybody takes care about us, the road users, the traffic police gallant offer us priority. Also Haggag and his "turbo" donkey are always around. One time behind us, other times beside or before our small "caravan". While watching this two, Christel und Karola create a sheer new description for a donkey. "Have a look to the graceful hind legs. They mince along, toddle, skip like a ballerina!! How delicately they are running", are the delightful comments made by the city ladies. Can anyone put it in nicer words? (Text and Fotos Antje Sliwka)