A touch of Nubia hits the little paradise

The suggestion was given by a regular guest "Why you don't supplement 'Paradise Garden' to the name 'Africa'? "Because for me it's really the meaning of this place!", was her comment. An idea that covinced Ali Ahmed Mahmoud (42, picture below wintery covered in scarfs), owner and manager of the restaurant "Africa", as sson. Usually he seems to be a quiet man, sometimes a little bit shy. But when he talks about three special topics he is going into raptures: All his former jobs, donkeys - and his restaurant "Africa". In fact after the opening in September 2001 he changed this place into a secret paradise, in a green garden. Therefore of course he was amazed by the idea of his guest. "I will order a new sign for my restaurant, a sign where you will also read 'Paradise Garden'. It's a fantastic idea, I like it very, very much", was his short-termed decision. So let's see when he will fulfill his promise.

It's early evening. Soft warm light is given by the handmade lamps of clay. On request of some English customers songs of the Egyptian singer legend Umm Kalthoum strike up. On the table beside four German tourist enjoy their dinner. They are newcomers to the "Africa". We listen to the sounds of delightful eating of gourmands. And a small comment: "The food is really much better than in our hotel." We are sure, if Ali would hear this reserved praise he only would give them an embarrassed smile. And there is another newcomer this evening. Englishman John from Yorkshire who assured his companion, an Egyptian tour guide: "This is the best evening of my holiday. Why didn't you bring me here before? I am travelling to Luxor since seven years. But beside the sightseeing trips for me this is the first time to visit the West Bank out of the tourist track. I didn't know that it is so quiet here, so relaxed. Not like in Luxor with all its hustle and bustle. There you can't walk one meter without offers to hire a carriage, taxi, felukka. Here you can walk around without any problem. Now we found this wonderful place where we really can relaxe. Phantastic. I will come back."

For Ali all this praises encourage him in his idea. That is to built up a place to comfort the customers, to offer them best quality for a reasonable price. "I know exactly what tourists want and I like to fulfil their wishes." Ali is successful in this field. One visible sign: more and more tour leaders visit "Africa" with their groups from all over the world. And also Egyptians like to invite their guests there for lunch or dinner. For Ali this means something like to win an award of honour. Very important are his experiences. Ali: "Since the opening I got not any complaint by guests for problems from our food." It must be true. Because although nobody complaints about stomach problems personally to Ali, in the village it would be known and go around quickly.

What's about the name "Africa"? Ali smiles. "Egypt is a country between two civilisations. From the Mediterranean Sea to the city of Minia Egypt belongs to the Arabian region. From there until the Sudanese boarder it is part the African continent. But in Luxor, in our village El Gezira, we belong to Africa. Therefore the name." An explanation that implements also the design of the restaurant. The specific touch Ali's restaurant gets from Nubia. The part of Egypt most influenced by African culture.

Ali explains proudly: "This place reminds of the courtyards of the Nubian houses. I did the design. My idea was to create a place with lots of flowers and greenery, a romantic place." And he reached his goal. The warm earth colour of the mud-brick walls with its naive paintings by the local artist Abdel Atif gives "Africa" a very cosy atmosphere. Like frame flowers, palm trees, banana plants sourround this picture.The mixture of a Nubian courtyard and a garden is like an appetizer not only for the stomach but also for the eyes..

A quick glance to the menu. Tomato- or vegetable soup (LE 4), omelette or scrambled eggs, macaroni or spaghetti as a snack or appetizer (LE 4), chicken in several variations, meat prepared in the "Tagen" with vegetables, Kofta (minced meat balls), veal steaks, fish from Lake Nasser, lamb (LE 8 each, without side dishes) are examples for main courses. In addition to this there will be served the typical Egyptian salads like Tahina, Hommus or Oriental salad (LE 3 each). Sounds good, looks even nicer if served on your plate, and - most important of all - it's a great taste.But the original success for "Africa" is not mentioned in the menu card. It is the daily special. "Every day it is a surprise by our chefs", Ali tells. He is counting on his two Chefs which both are named Nouby. They follow exactly the instructures of their boss. That means: Serve quality! With a kitchen based on the seasonal offers of the market. Because in "Africa" only fresh goods are used. "I never like to see frozen meat or fish in our pots and pans", swears Ali.

One of the "Africa" specials are pigeons stuffed with corn - when good pigeons are available. "Sometimes we also offer cabbage, or duck slowly cooked in the oven with onions, garlic and vegetables. For Christmas we prepare goose, turkey for New Year", Ali tells us in fluent English. English also is spoken - more or less - by his eight employees. Unnecessary to tell that "Africa" on request takes care for the needs of diabetics or vegetarians.

When Ali constructed his new "Africa" he thought of disabled people No step will stopp wheel chair drivers, in the toilets is enough space for them. Disabled and older persons can move everywhere without problems, they will feel comfortable.

But as everywhere also Ali has his limits, puts some things under taboo. "You will never find meat of camels, horses or rabbits in my place." And of course no pork. In this points he is very strict. The same for TV. A satellite dish? "No way. My guests want to eat in a quiet atmosphere. I don't need customers who just come to watch a football match or a movie." But as every rule has an exception so Ali has one as well: if a football match in Egypts National League with the top clubs Al Ahly and Zamalek from Cairo is broadcasted, it is allowed to switch on the TV - but not too loud.

New guests show up. Ali is talking in French, a language in which he can communicate with some words and phrases like with German or Italian. Finally he is a worldly-wise man. He started his career as a donkey guide (this is why he still loves this animals). In the age of 16 years he moved into the film business. Not as a movie star. His job was a translator for the team during the shootings for the English version of the movie according to Agatha Christies novel "Death on the Nile". He also organized trips and worked as a translator for German TV teams. Because of his knowledge of the West Bank he was engaged by "Sphinx-Film" later. After this episodes he worked as a taxi driver, founded his first small "Africa Restaurant". But he had to close down this place because of land consolidation by the Luxor City Council. After he got his compensation he built up the new "Africa".

Ali's experiences, his knowledge of the area are the benefit for his customers. He provides them with advices for all kind of trips. He can organizes tours, offers a shuttle service with his taxi, arranges day trips in his motor boat including lunch. Who is looking for something or is in need for any advice visits "Africa". According to the principle ask Ali, "Africa" is even a bit more than just a restaurant.